42 How to Solder Pot Metal Headlight Trim
Traditionally, pot metal has been one of the most difficult repairs attempted. Now, with Super Alloy 1 pot metal solder and flux kit, pot metal can be soldered quickly and easily, without damaging the original part. This low temperature alloy can repair everything from grilles to headlight trim to hood ornaments and emblems to building up missing pot metal pieces on classic car or antique auto parts. Super Alloy 1 can be machined and plated to keep the originality of any pot metal part, many of which are rare or irreplaceable.
For this demonstration, we repair a piece of headlight trim with a 2 1/2 inch cut in the pot metal. The headlight trim has been grinded and all oxidation has been removed prior to beginning the repair. Dip the rod into the flux and apply liberally to the pot metal. This non-corrosive flux will change color from honey to root beer when the parent metal has reached 350°F, indicating it’s time to add the rod. Note: If the flux turns black, you’ve overheated it. Remove the burnt flux with warm water and a wire brush, re-clean the pot metal and begin again.
Note the technique: heat is applied underneath to broadly heat the parent metal and allow the parent metal to melt the rod. Super Alloy 1’s low melting temperature requires very little heat and the flux ensures superior penetration into the cut. As the rod flows, keep laying more rod onto the crack until it’s completely filled. Allow the part to cool naturally, then remove the flux and grind the part down to shape the metal prior to chrome plating.
The finished repair demonstrates Super Alloy 1’s penetration capabilities, front and back
- Always remember to clean the inside of the crack
- White metal does not change color as an indicator of temperature, so use the Super Alloy 1 flux as your temperature guide
- Prepare part immediately before applying Super Alloy 1, to avoid re-oxidation