109 How to Repair Pot Metal Pits and Pitting with Super Alloy 1
One of the most common problems with classic car or antique auto restoration is pot metal pitting. Pitting is the result of surface level corrosion caused by oxidation of the metal that creates divots or “pock marks” on many classic car/antique auto parts. While pot metal pits may not create mechanical issues, it definitely contributes to an unappealing appearance on an otherwise beautifully restored automobile.
Super Alloy 1 to the rescue! Super Alloy 1 is a low temperature alloy and flux combination designed to easily remedy pot metal pits, regardless of the part. This video features step by step instructions on how to repair pot metal pits on nearly any classic car or antique auto part, with an inexpensive propane torch.
Super Alloy 1 solders pot metal at 350 degrees, allowing you to keep your car all original.
We utilize a “tinning” technique to repair these insidious pot metal pits.
First, use a grinder, sander, sand blaster or other abrasion technique to thoroughly remove all oxidation and chrome from the original part. Bare metal is required for optimal adhesion and bonding. Use a Dremel tool or drill on each individual pit as part of this process. Oxidation returns quickly, so be sure to complete this step within 30 minutes of soldering the pot metal.
When all the pits have been cleaned, broadly heat the parent metal to preheat the part. Dip the rod into the flux and apply the flux to the pot metal part, continuing to apply heat in a broad fashion.
Watch the flux. Super Alloy 1’s unique flux changes from honey colored to root beer brown when the parent metal has reached the 350°F working temperature. This transformation indicates it’s time to apply the rod in a tinning fashion, rubbing the rod gently over the metal to ensure even application. Allow the part to cool naturally.
Excess flux can be removed with water and a wire brush. The part can then be sanded and sent to a plating shop for chrome plating.